St Henri is a time-honoured and alternative expression of shiraz, and an intriguing counterpoint to Grange. It is unusual amongst Australia’s best red wines as it does not rely on any new oak.
Released for the first time by Penfolds in the early 1950s (first commercial vintage 1957), it gained a new lease of life in the 1990s as its quality and distinctive style became better understood.
Proudly, a wine style that hasn’t succumbed to the dictates of fashion or commerce, Penfolds St Henri is rich and plush when young, gaining soft, earthy, mocha-like characters with age. It is matured in an assortment of old large vats that allow the wine to develop, imparting minimal, if any oak character. Although a small proportion of cabernet sauvignon may sneak into the blend, the focal point for St Henri remains shiraz.
The nose showcases the unadulterated shiraz fruit profile without oak influence. The fruit aroma is delightful, with fruits of the forest, berry conserve, strawberry flan and rhubarb tart. There is a hint of confectionary, reminiscent of red glace cherries. The savoury notes of German Blutwurst - a spiced sausage, pan scrapings from roast lamb, salt-cured beef with black peppercorns and Ferric notes of iron filings and whetstone swarf - round out an impressive showing.
Palate:
The palate is quite savoury, with a morish umami nuance of Japanese nori paper and olive brine. The mid-palate anchors fresh blueberry and mulberry leaf, with exotic spices adding intrigue - Alleppey turmeric, toasted cumin, pimento. The tannins are very tactile, comparable to Dutch cocoa, creating excellent texture and mouthfeel.
