Bodegas Calvente Guindalera Blanco 2010
The 2010 La Guindalera is dry, aromatic, powdery, mineral, wildly distinctive white that is imbued with citric freshness. The aromas leaping from the glass offer such a cornucopia of scents it's difficult to avoid an adjective pile up. Honeycomb, pollen, tagine spices, ripe peach and fresh grape with a stony, almost saline minerality. In the mouth, it is more mineral and less grapey, but the mid palate is still finely scented by variations on lemon - confit, fresh, verbena - then wood-spice and anise, with meaty/spicy/salty notes keeping things on the savoury rails. Despite the complexity it's delicately mouth coating and finishes crisp and fresh with a reflux of lemon pastille perfume - anyone remember the yellow Wonka Fruit Pastilles? - reminding you of what has come before. While all this sounds fruity, the wine is actually fully dry, fine and lingering with a grippy firmness to the finish that cries out for something gastronomic. Arresting and full of refreshing, fragrant pleasure, it's one of those exotic, eccentric wines - from a far flung, tiny parcel of mountainous rock - that naturally induces an internal warmth and, well, puts a smile on your face.
In any six $32.19
Each $34.99
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Muscat of Alexandria